Diving at Sipadan (17th march 2010)

The big day, diving at Sipadan.

This morning was a fairly early start and I was excited and keen to get diving at the 3^rd top dive site in the world. This morning we had a different dive master thank goodness. He still had the same laid back approach as many others here but at least he was friendly and knew what he was doing. The feeling I get is that generally people here are just a bit fed up with the whole diving scene, at least thats how it appears.

Only 7 people can dive Sipadan with Uncle Changs a day and I think only a hundred people in total a day. On our trip was an American couple who I have now come across a couple of times. I shared a room with them in KK and then my second day of the Uncle Tans jungle experience was their first day and now we were diving Sipadan together with Uncle Changs.

Interestingly when they arrived in Semporna a couple of days ago they weren’t at all impressed with the way Uncle Changs seemed to be operating and so chose to dive their first day with Scuba Junkies instead, and the things they had to say about them didn’t surprise me in the slightest. Apparently they are all Europeans and Americans working there (one of their reasons for diving with them) and they said they are all really really rude. If this wasn’t bad enough they then said that during their first dive the air they were breathing tasted of fumes (!!), they complained after their first dive and nothing was done, they complained after the second dive and nothing was done and finally they complained again at the end but they just shrugged it off, one girl, they said, was almost sick while diving as a result of the air!! I am soooo glad I didn’t dive with them they just sound and appear to be a total mess in every aspect. I do think it’s a bit of shame as far as diving here goes, I mean it’s a lovely area and some great diving but as far as I can see there doesn’t seem to be a good, reputable and reliable dive operation here, I wonder where all the moneys going that we have to pay in permits??

Anyway enough of that! The diving.......

The diving was lovely, our first dive was at South Point where we saw lots of sharks and turtles, we then went off to Barracuda Point where unfortunately despite seeing barracuda from the boat, by the time we got in they had gone, what we did see though was a large shoal of Napoleon fish just literally hanging in the water which was amazing. There was so much to see while we were down there, it was fantastic. The divemasters tend to carry a small metal stick with them which they tap on their tank to get you attention to show you something interesting, it seemed every couple of seconds you could hear someone tapping on their tank. We saw so many different kinds of fish and millions of Nemos as well as frog fish, lion fish parrot fish the list is endless.

Napoleon Fish

For lunch we headed onto Sipadan island. It’s no longer possible for anyone apart from the army to stay on the island now which is a shame but wise as well I’m thinking as far as the damage tourism can cause to beautiful areas.

Sipadan Island

After lunch we headed off to our last dive site, this one is called Hanging Garden and as soon as you get in the water you can see exactly why. It’s just one massive sheer wall of coral reef extending down for who knows how far but a very very long way! All the way down the wall there are little ledges where there seems to be a whole ecosystem going on separate from the rest of the area. There were several turtles of all different sizes just hanging out and resting on the ledges as well as a few swimming around checking out the best rest site. You could get really close up to them without them appearing to take any notice what-so-ever of you. I’m sure that if you got too close they would let you know though. As we were swimming and checking out the hanging garden, behind us was the open sea and every now and then a shark or two would go by. Fortunately they were only reef sharks so pretty harmless really (at least I hoped!). I remember the first time I ever saw a shark while diving, that was only a reef shark as well but even so it managed to take my breath clear away (as I’m gasping and trying desperately to get away from it) my understanding now is that they’re more scared of us than we are of them, but if anyone knows any different it’s probably best not to enlighten me to be honest! :-)

It was a great dive and a good one to end on, I’m really glad I invested the time and effort in getting right over to this part of Sabah for the diving, it was lovely. Now it’s a mad dash (and it was mad!) back to Mabul island to return all the gear pick up my backpack and make the last boat back to Semporna.

Tonight despite my reservations and dislike of the whole Scuba Junkie enterprise I go back for more pizza, I’m heading out by bus back to Kinabalu Park tomorrow morning to climb the mountain the following day so decided I need some good energy food! :-)